From the Workshop

Stretching filament through the air between two walls is possible — but it has its limits. We explain how far you can bridge in FDM printing and how to prevent sagging.

A print's strength often comes not from infill density but from the number of wall perimeters. We've compiled practical ways to choose the right perimeter count.

When fastening a 3D-printed part with a screw, there are three main approaches — each offering a different balance of strength and cost. We've compiled the criteria for choosing the right one.

Supports cost you material, time, and surface quality. With smart design decisions, you can eliminate most supports right at the modeling stage.

Excessively high resolution creates unnecessarily large files, while too low a resolution results in faceted surfaces. Here's how to strike the right balance in your STL export settings.

Holes printed with FDM tend to come out narrower and more oval than designed. In this post we explain the logic behind hole compensation and practical solutions to get accurate dimensions.

Clips that break on the first snap are almost always the result of a design error. We share the fundamental rules for drawing reliable snap-fit joints.

Can a live hinge — printed in one piece and bent repeatedly — actually work with FDM? We explain why layer orientation and material choice determine everything.

The same 3D file placed on the print bed at different angles produces completely different results. We explain how orientation determines the strength, surface quality, and support triangle of [...]

If you're dealing with prints that warp at the corners or pop off the bed mid-print, the solution is often in the design. Here's how to improve first layer adhesion with brim, mouse ear, and [...]